Base Metal, Nickel-Free or Stainless Steel? A Shopper's Guide to Jewellery Findings

Walk into any bead shop and you'll see the same labels on the little packets of clasps, jumprings, earwires and charms: base metal, nickel-free, stainless steel, 925 silver, 14k gold-filled. If you've ever stood there wondering whether the cheaper packet will turn your skin green, or whether the pricier one is actually worth it, this guide is for you.

Here's what each one really means — and how to pick the right one for the piece you're making.

The five materials in one line each

• Base metal — an alloy like brass or copper, usually plated with silver, gold or bronze colour. Cheap, plentiful, and fine for most everyday fashion pieces.
• Nickel-free — a base metal made without nickel in the mix. The go-to for anyone with a nickel sensitivity.
• Stainless steel — a hard-wearing steel alloy that doesn't tarnish or flake. Excellent for everyday wear and for pieces that get wet.
• 925 silver (sterling) — real silver, 92.5% pure. A precious metal that can be polished back to bright.
• 14k gold-filled — a thick layer of real gold bonded to a base core. Keeps its colour far longer than plating, at a fraction of solid gold.

Skin sensitivity: the question everyone actually asks

If you've ever had a ring leave a green mark or an earring make your ear itch, the usual culprit is nickel — a common metal in cheap alloys and in the plating underneath gold-coloured finishes.

If that's you:

• Choose nickel-free or stainless steel for anything that touches skin directly — earwires, hoops, clasps, charms on a bracelet.
• Avoid unmarked "base metal" for earrings especially, and be wary of thin gold plating, which wears through to the metal underneath.
• 925 silver and gold-filled are also safe bets, and are what you'd use for a piece meant to be worn often.

Base metal still has its place: for a kids' craft project, a seasonal accessory, or a piece you'll re-make in a few months, it does the job at a friendly price.

Tarnish and wear: which one lasts?

Stainless steel is the workhorse: it won't tarnish, it stands up to handwashing and gym sessions, and it keeps its finish. Silver will tarnish over time, but that's not a fault — a quick polish brings it straight back. Gold plating is the one to watch: it looks lovely when new, but the coating wears off where it rubs against skin, so it's better on pendants and necklaces than on rings or bracelets.

Price versus purpose: how to decide

There's no single "best" metal — only the best one for what you're making.

• Making a stack of gifts, party favours or market stock? Base metal or nickel-free keeps your costs down, and your customers get a cheerful piece at a fair price.
• Making something to be worn every single day? Go stainless steel. It's the reason our own stainless steel jewellery stands up to daily life without tarnishing.
• Making a keepsake or an heirloom piece? 925 silver or 14k gold-filled is worth the spend — it's the metal that makes a gift feel like a gift.

One practical tip: it's fine to mix. A lot of lovely pieces pair a precious centrepiece — a gemstone pendant or a silver charm — with stainless steel findings that quietly do the hard work. Nobody sees the jumpring. Everybody sees the pendant.

Choose this if...

Most of our findings come in all three of the everyday options — base metal, nickel-free and stainless steel — so you can build the same design at three different price points, or upgrade just the parts that touch skin.